Clones

These are the common clones.... Yellow and Blue. They have proven to be the most durable. Based on what I have learned, it appears the Yellow is the way to go.

Both can be found for well under $200 and they are race ready after the governor and oil sensor are removed.    Some tracks run FHs with these, some don't.  The classes for these cheaper versions are apparently growing fast.  You can buy three or more of these motors for much less than one blueprinted FH motor...

These clones should be especially attractive to beginners that do not want to spend a lot of money and want to minimize the maintenance required.  They run on gas and use a shoe clutch.  With the purple plate added they can run with the Flathead purples......

Check out this clone forum for some detailed information and get any questions you have answered.

More on Clones...

Test Results:

One of these clones with a .500 restrictor plate was found to be equal to a Purple Plate flathead on a dyno.   The same was found with a .550 plate on a Gold Plate motor.  Apparently the stock flathead was better than the stock clone (no plate).  A minor weight adjustment may be needed to run them together.

The installation of stronger springs allows for more RPMs, however, dyno testing has shown no increase in horsepower.  INCREASE RPMs NOT RECOMMENDED WITH STOCK ROD....

Track/Local Options:

* In keeping with cost reduction, shoe clutches ($35-$85) are the spec clutch at most tracks.... considerable savings in $$$$$$$ and maintenance time.

* Some tracks are allowing a different tank and exhaust to address safety concerns. The tank on top is not considered safe, therefore, a tank like the animals use along with a fuel pump is recommended. Some purists feel this defeats the purpose of "Box Stock". The exhaust that comes on the originals gets extremely hot when racing causing burnt arms and ruined clothing. If the stock header is to be retained, they recommend wrapping with heat tape as a minimum. If another pipe is to be used, it must be specified in the rules to maintain equality. This can be a performance enhancer.

* The alternate header and fuel tank could be left optional, leaving it up to each driver to decide if they want to make the change and incur the additional cost.

* Some tracks are allowing a billet flywheel. There is some concern that the stock flywheel will not hold up to the increased RPMs. This is not really a problem for the Purple plates, however, could for Gold and Stock if modifications allowed for extremely high RPMs. So far I have only found one instance where the magnet on the flywheel let go.

Gasoline is used. This in itself reduces maintenance costs and extends engine life. Some have done nothing to their engines for over two seasons except change oil.

Claimer Rule

A "claimer" rule is in place at many tracks I have found so far that are running the clones.  An engine can be claimed less the clutch, chain guard, throttle kit, and any other allowed modifications not original.  This discourages cheating.  Obviously, a new motor is cheaper.  If a racer does not want to give up the claimed motor, they are disqualified for the season in the "clone" classes.  This type of rule is felt by many to be essential for this class to succeed.  Take the $200 and buy another motor....??? NOT THIS YEAR FOR SURE!  There are other options available that can be considered.

Refresh/Rebuild???

Most do not consider rebuilding or refreshing these motors.  Cheaper to buy a new one.  Now this is something I really like.  There is one source for these motors that will give a $25 refund for the old blocks when purchasing a new one.

Here are some videos on setting up a clone

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTNbDvfIHoo&feature=related     Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umYrZJ3Aw2k&feature=related  Part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcwVYwlRJlw&feature=related Part 3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdYK11qNBA4&feature=related  Part 4

These videos will go a long way to clear up a lot of what you must do to get one of these motors ready to race. There are kits out there for the throttle linkage and adapters that allow for the use of a better racing filter. 

Links to More Information

Here is a link to over 500 forum discussions on clones. This is where I asked questions and found answers to many unknowns..enjoy. http://karting.4cycle.com/archive/index.php?f-120.html

Sources/Suppliers

This list will grow as I find more sources. Links will be provided.

Ward Karting: http://karting.4cycle.com/classified/showproduct.php?product=1632&sort=1&cat=6&page=1

Gecker Motorsports: http://www.geckermotorsports.com/BoxStock.htm

American Power Sports: http://host179.ebm.bestsoftwarehost.com/iw_products.m4p.pvx?;products_no_tree?company=APS?CAT=ENG

DynoCams: http://www.dynocamstore.com/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=4fd0746c7e2a62006212f367baa285f2

TS Racing: http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=5573&CATID=26

NR Racing: http://www.nr-racing.com/Clones.htm

Here is a site that provides instructions on how to do all the modifications/maintenance on clones....http://arcracing.blogspot.com

Here is some interesting information on the effect of different valve springs used in clones...http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread.php?t=213252

Stock springs have been measured at the end of a season only to find that they only lost about 1# for both intake and exhaust at the installed height.  HOWEVER, the lash has to be watched.  In some cases it went from .004 (New) to .012.  Obviously that needs to be checked and adjusted throughout the season. From what the Animal Dudes say, that is easy to do.

Here is a link to a set of rules developed for the Clone classes.....http://www.sumterracing.com/html/box_blueprinted.html

Here are the AKRA rules/classes...... http://americankarting.us/downloads/AKRA_Rulebook.pdf

More to follow................ I hope. Your input, feedback will be appreciated.... tcaggie24@msn.com