More on Clones...

Test Results:

One of these clones with a .500 restrictor plate was found to be equal to a Purple Plate flathead on a dyno.   The same was found with a .550 plate on a Gold Plate motor.  Apparently the stock flathead was better than the stock clone (no plate). A minor weight adjustment may be needed to run them together.

Track/Local Options:

* In keeping with cost reduction, shoe clutches ($65-$85) are the spec clutch at most tracks.... considerable savings in $$$$$$$ and maintenance time.

* Some tracks are allowing a different tank and exhaust to address safety concerns. The tank on top is not considered safe, therefore, a tank like the animals use along with a fuel pump is recommended. Some purists feel this defeats the purpose of "Box Stock". The exhaust that comes on the originals gets extremely hot when racing causing burnt arms and ruined clothing. If the stock header is to be retained, they recommend wrapping with heat tape as a minimum. If another pipe is to be used, it must be specified in the rules to maintain equality. This can be a performance enhancer.

* The alternate header and fuel tank could be left optional, leaving it up to each driver to decide if they want to make the change and incur the additional cost.

* Some tracks are allowing a billet flywheel. There is some concern that the stock flywheel will not hold up to the increased RPMs. This is not really a problem for the Purple plates, however, could for Gold and Stock if modifications allowed for extremely high RPMs. So far I have only found one instance where the magnet on the flywheel let go.

* It seems that most feel that running the clones with the flatheads is not a good thing to do. Therefore, we might want to consider running the Purples, Gold, and Stock clones with their counterparts, however, scoring them separately. At tracks where this was done, there was a slow change-over to the Clones as the season progressed. Of course, the Purple and Gold will still have a specified restrictor plate.

Gasoline is used. This in itself reduces maintenance costs and extends engine life. Some have done nothing to their engines for over two seasons except change oil.

Claimer Rule

A "claimer" rule is in place at every track I have found so far that is running these engines.  An engine can be claimed less the clutch, chain guard, throttle kit, and any other allowed modifications not original.  This discourages cheating.  Obviously, a new motor is cheaper.  If a racer does not want to give up the claimed motor, they are disqualified for the season in the "clone" classes.  This type of rule is apparently essential for this class to succeed.  Take the $200 and buy another motor....???

Refresh/Rebuild???

Most do not consider rebuilding or refreshing these motors.  Cheaper to buy a new one.  Now this is something I really like.  There is one source for these motors that will give a $25 refund for the old blocks when purchasing a new one.

Here are some videos on setting up a clone

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTNbDvfIHoo&feature=related     Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umYrZJ3Aw2k&feature=related  Part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcwVYwlRJlw&feature=related Part 3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdYK11qNBA4&feature=related  Part 4

These videos will go a long way to clear up a lot of what you must do to get one of these motors ready to race. There are kits out there for the throttle linkage and adapters that allow for the use of a better racing filter.

Links to More Information

Here is a link to over 500 forum discussions on clones. This is where I asked questions and found answers to many unknowns..enjoy. http://karting.4cycle.com/archive/index.php?f-120.html

Sources/Suppliers

This list will grow as I find more sources. Links will be provided.

Ward Karting: http://karting.4cycle.com/classified/showproduct.php?product=1632&sort=1&cat=6&page=1

Gecker Motorsports: http://www.geckermotorsports.com/BoxStock.htm

American Power Sports: http://host179.ebm.bestsoftwarehost.com/iw_products.m4p.pvx?;products_no_tree?company=APS?CAT=ENG

DynoCams: http://www.dynocamstore.com/index.php?cPath=22&osCsid=4fd0746c7e2a62006212f367baa285f2

TS Racing: http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=5573&CATID=26

Harbor Freight: http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=6.5&Submit=Go

Dover Power: http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread.php?t=208319

Here is a site that provides instructions on how to do all the modifications/maintenance on clones....http://www.affordablegokarts.com/govenor-removal.php

Here is some interesting information on the effect of different valve springs used in clones...http://karting.4cycle.com/showthread.php?t=213252

Stock springs have been measured at the end of a season only to find that they only lost about 1# for both intake and exhaust at the installed height.  HOWEVER, the lash has to be watched.  In some cases it went from .004 (New) to .012.  Obviously that needs to be checked and adjusted throughout the season. From what the Animal Dudes say, that is easy to do.

What about a "fun Class"?  It is being used at other tracks for drivers that want to just try out karting without the pressure of racing for points. No points.... A reduced entry fee.... Run anything....stock and clones and plates.... whatever.

Here is a link to a set of rules developed for the Clone classes.....http://www.sumterracing.com/html/box_blueprinted.html

Here are the AKRA rules/classes...... http://americankarting.us/downloads/AKRA_Rulebook.pdf

More to follow................ I hope. Your input, feedback will be appreciated.... tcaggie24@msn.com